Welt-sewing machine.



C. RIHOLMES. WELT SEWING MACHINE. u APPLIUATION FILED AUG. 30, 1909.

M Patented Aug 26, 1913.

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C. P. HOLMES. WELT SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. so, 1909. l 071,050. Patented Aug.26,1913. a V a SHEETS-SHEET z'.

C. P. HGLMES. WELT SWNG MACHINE.

APPLIGATION FILED AUG. so, w09.

Patented Aug. 26, 1913.

TED -srATES PATENT 0F F 10E.'

oiAnLEs P. HOLMES, or LYNN, Mnsseocezusnrrs,v As'srGNoRTo UNrTnD snon- MACHINERY COMPANY, 0F PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A. CORPORATION OF NEWl WELT-SEWING MACHINE.

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spemoanon @Letters raient. atenten Aug, 267 1913,

Application filed August 8d, 1909. Serial No. 515,157.

Ta-all whom t may concern Be' it known that I, CHARLES P. HOLMES, a citizen of the United States, residing at Lynn, in the countyI of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain `new andwuseful Improvements in Welt-Sewing Machines; .and I do hereby declare the following tolbea'fll, clear, and exact descri tion o' the invention,A such as will enab eV others skilled? in the art to which is apperica-insv to'ma'ke 'and use the sa me. r

. The present invention relates to welt sewingmachines. adapted for use in sewing the welt to the insole and upper of a shoe and more especially to devices for drawing vthe welt back through' the welt guide after it has been severed from the shoe so that its ered from the shoe, .but these devices have@l 'machine after the sewing end will be in proper ositionv for attachment to the succeeding s of the sewing operation.

yIn removingl a shoe from a welt sewing ration has been completed, 'thefpperator aws a sufcient llen th of' welt through the welt 'guide to ena le him to conveniently sever the welt from the shoe. This' leaves a' considerable lengt-h 'of welt projecting beyond the welt guide which should be drawn back through the welt guide irl-order tol bring the end of the welt into proper position for attachment to the succeeding shoe. The drawing back of the welt to. the proper extent requires care and attention on the part of the operator Vwith a resulting loss of time andreduction in the production-of the ,machine It has been proposed to provide devices for drawing back the welt a er it has been sev'- not proved lsatisfactory principally for the reason that they have been-constructed. to

'draw back auniform length of welt regardless of variations in the length 'of welt drawn through the ide by the operator in removing the shoe om the machine.v

It is accordingly the object of the present invention to provide a mechanism for retracting the welt which will operate 'to draw -the proper length ofl welt back throu h the welt guide withoutirequiring specia care or attention on the part of the operator and to otherwise improve the`constructin and mode of operation of wetretracting devices.

To these endsone feature of the invenat the beginning ftion, contemplates the provision of welt resi f tracting means for drawing a length of welt back through the welt. guide which varies fin accordance with the length drawn for j Broadly consi ered it is not material to this feature of the invention whether the operation ofi the welt retracting mechanism is E automatic orrequires' more. or less manual I manipulation on thepart of the operator.

A further feature of the invention contemplates the' provision in a welt sewing machine of means which. acts automatically to' :draw the weltv back through the Welt guide when the welt is severed from the shoe:

vIn its'broader aspects this feature Aof the lginvention contemplates theemployment of :any welt ret-ractmg means which is con,-

structed and arranged to thus automatically retract the welt.

In its preferred form, the welt retreating means comprises a device which operates or is operated to grip the Welt previous to the removal of the shoe by the operator, then moves forward with the Welt as the shoe is lremoved and then returns to draw the suri plus welt back through the welt guide when the welt is severed from the` shoe. This :construction and arrangement of. welt re- Sti-acting. means constitutes a further feature of the invention and itis immaterial'to this feature of the invention. whether the welt gripping device is operated to grip the welt 'by the manipulation of the machine in reto grip the welt.

moving the work or. is otherwise operated to provide means for operating the welt gripping device to grip the welt-.which is fautomatically thrown 'into operation or rendered active in bringing the partsof the machine into position for the removal of the completed shoe, since when thus operated the welt retracting mechanism doesnot require any special attention or manipulation on the part of the operator.A Thisoperation, of the welt gri ping device' may be convenient-ly rovi ed for' by controlling or operating the It .isV preferred, however,

10 l welt grppng'device from the lever which'operates to throw olii" the thread tension preparatory to the removal of a shoe.

In order that the end of the weltl may project through the welt guide to the proper extent after the welt has been retracted, it

is desirable that the return movement of the retracting mechanism provided witha welt en aging devicewhich is movable with the we t during the removal of the shoe and which during its return movement draws the welt back vthrough the welt guide, of means for releasing the welt before the device has completed its return movement. Any suitable means may be employed for thus re-- leasing the welt and it is not material to a this feature of the invention, in' its broader aspects, whether the return of the welt retracting device or the release of the welt is automatically 'effected or not. In its preferred form this feature of the invention contemplates the provision of a stop for arresting the welt engaging device before it has reached its initial position and the automatic release of the welt and return of the device to its initial position upon the starting of the machine.

vIn addition tothe above features the invention includes certain further features of construction and arrangement referred to in the claims which contribute to the sutliciency and simplicity of the mechanism.

The various features of the invention will be readily understood from the accompanying drawin and the following detailed description o the construction shown and referred to therein.

In the drawings Figure 1 is a front elevation of a welt sewing machine provided with the present invention in its preferred form; Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the machine; Fig. 3 is a detailed plan view of the welt rctrac'ting mechanism; Fig. 4 is a horizontal sectional view on line 4 4, Fig. 5; Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the part shown in 3; and Fig. 6 is a side elevation looking toward the left in Fig. 5.

As shown in the drawings, the invention is illustrated as embodied in the well known Goodyear welt and turn sewing machine, which is disclosed in the patent to French and Meyer, No. 412,704, Oct. 8, 1889. It is to be understood, however, that the invention is not limited in this ap lication to this form of machine but may e embodied in or applied to various forms or types of welt sewing machines. v

l'. the machine illustrated 1 indicates the needle, 2 the feed point, 3 the channel guide, 4 the looper, 5 the take-up, 6 the welt guide and 7 the back rest, these parts being constructed and operated in the manner set forth in the patent above referred to. The

n'iachine is also provided with the usual ten-- sion device 8 and tension controlling lever f) whlclris operated through a bell crank lever 10, rod l1, and vcam 12, by turning j back the cani shaft of the machine at the completion of the sewing operation in the usual manner. ln addition tol these devices,

the machine is also provided with the welt retracting mechanism embodying the varions features of the present invention 1n their preferred form. In the construction of this mechanism shown, the means for retracting thc welt comprises a device for engaging and gripping the welt consisting of a fixed welt gripping jaw 13 and a movable welt gripping jaw 14. The jaw 13 is formed at the upper end of an arm 15 which is pivoted at 16 to a bracket 17 so that it may swing'in the direction of the travel of the welt. The jaw 14 is formed by the upper end of a lever 18 which is pivoted at 19 on the arm 15 so that it may move toward' and from the jaw 13 to grip and release the welt which passes between the jaws. The jaw 13 is pressed normally in a direction to release the "welt by a spring 20. The weltis guided and retained between the welt gripping jaws by an over-hanging flange 21 on the upper Vend of the arm 15 and a pin 22 which may be secured in any one of a series of holes in the arm 15 inaccordance with the width of welt which is being used. The jaw 13 is preferably provided with corrugations or teeth for preventing relative movement between the welt and gripping jaws when the jaws are operated to grip the welt.- The welt gripping jaws are held normally in re- .tracted position by a spring 23.

During the operation of the machine the rwelt gripping jaws are disengaged from the welt and the welt passes freely between the jaws and through the welt guide. `Vhen the sewing of the shoe is completed, the operator turns the cam Shaft back to bring the stitch forming devices into properposition for the removal 'of the shoe and this backward movement of the cam shaft operates the lever 9 to relieve the tension on the thread. This movement ofthe lever l9 also .brings a cam plate 24 which is secured to the lever against a pin 25 projecting from the lower end of a bell crank lever 26,*the upper end of which carries a roll 27 engaging the lower end 'of the gripping lever 18. The cam 24.- acting through these connections operates the lever 18 to engage the welt gripping jaws with the welt. Now when the operator removes the shoe and draws forward the welt through,the welt guide, the welt gripping jaws'move forward with thefwelt against the tension of the springl 23,'the lower end of the arm 18 being so harina@ r A Shaped that it remains in engagement with the roll 2'? during this movement of the welt gripping jaws. When the operator severs the welt from 'the shoe, the spring 23 acts to ret-urn the welt gripping jaws toward their initial position and thus draw the welt. back through the welt guide.

ln order that the proper length ot welt may he. left projecting through the welt m guide, the weit gripping jaws are operated to release the Welt before they roach their initial position. In the construction shown, the return movement of the welt gripping jaws is arrested by a stop 28 ohich is so arranged that it does not interfere with the forward movementA of the welt gripping jaws but extends into the pat-h ot' a lug 29 on the arm l5 during the return of the welt gripping jaws and arrests their return move ment. As shown, the stop 28 1s 1n the form of an arm pivoted on one arm of'a hell crank lever E@ and4 held yieldingly against a stop shoulder 3i on the lever by a spring 32. The lever 30 is held normally in position to support the arm 28 in the path ot the lug-i129 on theI armY 15 hy a spring 33, Fig. 2. When the welt gripping jaws are advanced with the welt, the spring 32 4yields to allow the passage of the arm 11i-and immediately returns the arm 29 into normal position against the stop 31 after the arm 15 has passed. @n the return movement oi" the arm l5, therefore, the lug 29 strikes against the end of the arm 28, thus arresting the welt 5 engaging grippers before they have coinpleted their return movement. The welt gripping jaws, therefore, act to draw hack through the Welt guide a length of welt which is less than the length drawn forward 40 through the guide by an amount depending upon the position ot the stop arm 28 with relation to the initial position of the welt gripping jaws. By properly arranging-or adjusting the stop arm 28, therefore, a

proper length ot' welt will he left projecting beyond the welt guide without regard to the length ot' welt which is drawn forward through the guide by the operator in removing the shoe.

When the machine is started, the tension controlling lever 9 is operated to put on the tension and this movement of the lever 9 releases the lever 26 so that the welt gripping jaws are .open to release .the welt. During the first revolution of the cam shaft, a caux 34, carried by the cam shaft of the machine, actuates the lever 30 to swing the stop arm 28 out of engagement with the lug 2%), as indicated indlig. 5, so that the Welt gripping 6@ jaws return to their initial position.

While it is preferred to employ the construction and arrangement of parts shown and described, it will' he understood that this construction and arrangement is not essential, except so far as it is specified in the 'parting to said rot-ractor a welt guide, a device' for claims, and may he varied and moditied as found desirable or to suit the construction and arrangement et the parte of the ina-- chine in which the invention may he embodied without departing troni the broader if@ features ot" the invention. it will also be understood that certain features of the inf vent-ion are not limited in their application to mechanism which retracts the welt drawn forward through the welt guide, but may he im embodied with advantage 1n other forment mechanism for controlling the movement ot' the welt at the completion of the sewing operation, or between successive 'sewing operations.

Having explained the nature and object oi the invention and one torni of mechanism .in which it may he embodied, what l claim 1s l. A sewing machine, having, in coinhina- 3g, tion., stitch forming mechanism, a welt guide, and means acting automatically to draw the weltloaclt through the guide after it is severed troni the shoe, substantially .as described.

2. A sewing machine, having, incorniciare tion, stitch forming mechanism, a welt guide, and means acting automatically to draw hack through the guide less welt than Y, is drawn forward through the guide in reg5 moving the shoe, substantially as described.

3. A sewing machine, having, in combinau tion, stitch forming mechanism, a weit guide, a welt retractor, and means for imdrawing w@ movement less hy' a uniform predetermined amount than the length ot the welt drawn forward through the guide, substantially as described. It. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt gripping the welt pre vions to the withdrawal of the shoe movable with the welt, means for returning the device to Adraw the welt back through the guide after it is severed from the shoe, and means for releasing the welt hetero the device has completed its return movement, substantially as described.

' 5. A sewing machine, having, in comhina- 115 tion, stitch forming mechanism, a welt guide, a welt retractor constructed to grip the welt and move forward therewith as theshoe is withdrawn, means for returning the retractor to draw back the welt through the la@ guide, and means for arresting the return ot the retractor before it completes its return movement, substantially as described.

6. A sewing machine, having, in comiiination, stitch forming mechanism, guide, a welt retractor constructed to grip the Welt and move'A forward therewith during the removal ot the shoe, means for returninof the retractor to draw hack the welt through the guido after it is severed from is se'k a welt R25 the shoe, means for arrest ing the retractor before it has completed its return movement, and means for releasing the welt and completing the return of the retractor, substantially as described.

7. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt guide7 a Welt gripping device movable with the welt during the removal of the shoe, and a spi-ing for holding said device in retracted position, substantially as described.

S. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a. welt guide,

guide, a welt'gripping device movable with the welt during the removal of the shoe, a spring for holding said device in retracted position, and a stop for arresting said device before it completes its return movement and means for 'thereafter rendering the stop inactive, substantially as described.

9. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a Welt welt retracting mechanism, and means for engaging said welt retracting mechanism with the weltv in bringing the sewing mechanism into position for the removal of the shoe, substantially as described.

10. A sewin machine, having, in combination, stitch orming mechanism including a tension device, a welt guide, means for relieving the tension at the completion of the sewing operation, a Welt retracting lmechanism including a welt gripping device, and connections for operating said device to grip the welt upon the release of the tension, substantially as described.

11. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt guide, a welt gripping device movable with the welt, means forv retracting the Welt gripping device to draw the welt back through the guide when it is severed from the shoe, mea-ns for arresting the welt gripping device before it has completed its return move- I ment, and mechanism for releasing the Welt and completing the return of said device upon the starting of the machine, substan-.-

tially as described.

12. A sewing machine, having, in combination, 'stitch forming mechanism, a Welt retracting device mounted to move with the Welt as the welt is drawn forward, means for actuating the device to grip the welt before the shoe is Withdrawn, and means for returning the device to draw baclr the surplus welt when the Welt has been severed, substantially as described.

13. A vsewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a Welt retracting device mounted to move with the welt, means rendered active in bringing the stitch forming mechanism into position for removal of the shoe for actuating the device to grip the Welt, and means for returning the device to draw back the surplus welt when the Welt has been severed, substantially as described.

14. A sewing machine, having, in combination, a welt guide, a device for controlling the welt mounted to travel forward with the welt as it is drawn forward through the guide, means for returning the device to normal position, and means for connecting the device with the Welt previous to the withdrawal of the shoe, substantially as described.

15. A sewing machine, having, in combination, a Welt guide, a welt controlling device movable With the welt as it is drawn forward, and means for connecting the device With the welt in bringing the machine into.position for the removal of the shoe, substantially as described.

16. A'sewing machine, having, in combination, a welt guide, a device for gripping the welt previous to the withdrawal of the,

shoe movable with theV Welt as it is drawn forward through the Welt guide, a stop for determining the position of the gripper While gripping the Welt, and means for freeing the gripper and returning it to initial position, substantially as described.

17. A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a welt gripping device movable with the Welt, means for actuating the gripper to grip the Welt in bringing the sewing mechanism into position for removal of the shoe, and means for actuating the gripper to free the welt, substantially as described.

CHARLES P. HOLMES.

Witnesses: Y

IRA L.v FISH, N. D. MoPHArL.

`. Copie! of thi: patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressingi the Commissioner of Iatents,

\ Washington, I). C." 

